- Hastings, GB
- £45 /hr
- Available now
Freelance pattern cutter with over 35 years experience in the industry, specializing in tailoring :- Ladies coats and jackets, skirts and trousers plus all aspects of Menswear.more...Freelance pattern cutter with over 35 years experience in the industry, specializing in tailoring :- Ladies coats and jackets, skirts and trousers plus all aspects of Menswear.
I've been freelancing for fifteen years+ and provide top quality fully engineered patterns on paper or card.
When a good fit is essential my experience and precision will guarantee excellence.
I have a Gerber (V8) system so I can email patterns anywhere in the world, and clients now range from Canada and the USA, to South Africa, China and Japan.
A lot of my work is London based and I'm in town regularly visiting clients. I can work in-house or from my studio, as required. However, with emailed patterns and fittings done on Skype or Google Hangout, distance has ceased to be a problem.
I also have a number of bespoke clients (Male and Female) for whom I make hand cut and finished garments to order:- typically waistcoats, suits, trousers and skirts. Jackets are hand canvassed, with padstitched lapels, either full- or half canvas as required.
Recent Clients:- This year has ben really hectic so I've had little time to update my work schedule, but new clients are Menswear tailoring patterns for New Look Retailers, and Ladieswear catwalk collection patterns for a Chinese designer to be shown in New York. (Designer's name withheld by request) I have just (end of March 2017) come back from Shanghai having done a two week stint working on the new collection patterns and specific grading requirements.
Other recent clients are :- Roland Mouret (menswear), Whistles (Ladies wear) Nicole Farhi (menswear), COS (Ladies, mens, and childrens wear).
Autumn 2015 - Menswear patterns for 20th Century Clothiers.
October 2012 - Prototype garments for McQ Menswear (Alexander McQueen)
July 2012 - 7 day contract with Mulberry Co. Working on catwalk collection prototypes.
May 2012 - 12 day contract with Courtaulds working on Ladies coats for M & S, spring 2013.
Jan/Feb 2012 - 5 week stint at McQ.(Alexander McQueen) working on Womenswear collection for fashion week show
+ Menswear for McQ. by Alexander McQueen. (8th Dec. - 16th Dec. 2011)
I was Senior Tailoring Tutor at the Royal Collage of Art for 5 years and have taught pattern cutting, design and garment construction at both M.A. and B.A. levels. producing everything from formal hand finished tailored garments with floated canvas etc. to the more whacky individual designs that students come up with - see my work experience for more details.
Area Covered: London, and the South
Company Name: SP2 Limited
Work Experience Summary: TRANSFERABLE SKILLS:
1. PATTERN CUTTING From Designer’s sketch or idea – correctly interpreting the initial concept, and collaborating with the designer to arrive at the optimum product.
2. GARMENT MAKING To production standards. Adept on all the usual sample-room machinery. Skilled prototype maker from simple blouses and casual wear to structured jackets and coats.
3. PRODUCTION Fully conversant with most modern factory machinery and construction methods.
4. COMPUTER SKILLS
CAD/CAM Experienced pattern maker on Gerber / Silhouette system. Plus computer grading including grade rule writing, and marker making. Also proficient with Lectra Modaris system.
Own Gerber system (Version 8.4) with digitizer and SP120 plotter.
5. COMPUTER SKILLS
OFFICE Skilled in Adobe Illustrator & Photoshop, Exel, Word. Etc.
Email and internet conversant.
6. HANDS-ON APPROACH Strong aptitude for anything technical or practical. Good problem solver. Good communication:- 5 years teaching full time at the Royal College of Art (Senior Tailoring Tutor in Fashion & Textles) plus fixed term visiting Tutor at Ravensbourne College,(Fashion Degree Course) and Bath University (Fashion Design Skills)
EMPLOYER Ravensbourne College of Art
Walden Road, Chislehurst, Kent. BR7 5SN
Date of Employment. Jan 2007 – august 2009
Position Fixed Term Part Time Lecturer.
Teaching all aspects of Menswear and womenswear Tailoring.
EMPLOYER. Bath Spa University College, Dept. of Fashion Design Skills
4, The Circus
Date of Employment. 6th May 2004 – June 2007
Position Fixed Term Part Time Lecturer.
Teaching Menswear Tailoring Project.
EMPLOYER. Baird Menswear Brands.
William Baird PLC. Granary Building. 1, Canal Wharf
Leeds LS11 5BB
Date of Employment. 1st September 1999 – 31st January 2001
POSITION. Design & Product Development Executive
RESPONSIBILITIES. Overall responsibility for the technical design team (7) and product development team (4) based at B.M.B. Factory at Goole. Producing approx. 500 suits per week for approx. eight different brands from Burtons to Alexandre, Savile Row. Plus supplying technical support and patterns worldwide to production in various countries- Rumania, Turkey, Portugal, India and the Far East.
Producing new designs and patterns for Alexandre, Cartel, Limehaus and Gibson Brands. Plus new sportswear concepts for the various in-house brands.
REPORTING TO:- 1; B.M.B. Chief Executive. 2; Immediate Superior, Design Director.
IN CHARGE OF:- Design Team: Senior Pattern Cutter (Bespoke), Senior Pattern Cutter (Ready Made), Two assistant pattern cutters, and Three pattern technicians (Gerber).
Product Development Team: one senior and one assistant garment technologist, plus one senior and one assistant fabric technologist.
EMPLOYER. The Wensum Corporate Company PLC.
South Corner, Brighton Road, Lowfield Heath.
Gatwick. RG11 0PH.
Date of Employment. 22nd December 1997 – 31st July 1999.
POSITION. Head of Technical Dept.
Clients 1, John Rocha – Virgin Atlantic Flight Uniforms
2. Technical consultants and prototype development for Cathay Pacific flight uniform , designer, Eddie Lau (Hong Kong)
3. Britannia Airways, and various other airlines, and building society corporate uniforms
RESPONSIBILITIES. Responsible for all technical aspects of all woven garments produced by the company – menswear and ladieswear.
From initial concept and first toiles working with the design team, to development of final garment liaising with both design team and customer.
Producing first patterns for sample room and engineering production patterns and grades for final production.
Team Leader to Technical Staff, Delegating (some of) the day-to-day tasks (see below) as appropriate.
DAY TO DAY. •Making blocks and toiles from designer’s sketches. Flat cutting and draping on stand •Fitting and passing final toiles and blocks for sample patterns • Making complete patterns on PDS computer, (Gerber Silhouette) •Producing spec sheets for sample patterns and liaising with factory sample rooms for first samples • Fitting and fine tuning of samples •Grading and sizing of production patterns (Ladies sizes 2-30, Mens sizes 34”-50”) •Engineering finished patterns to specific factory requirements • Choosing and testing internal components – Fusings, canvas, shoulder pads etc. •Visiting factories to discuss production methods and pattern requirements, and establish quality standards. •
REPORTING TO: Managing Director. Immediate superior – Operations Director.
IN CHARGE OF: (5): One manual pattern cutter; one computer Grader/ Marker maker; one Quality assessor/manager; two sample machinists.
LIAISING WITH: Design Team (2) and Production Team (5).
EMPLOYER. Stephen Marks Ltd. Nicole Farhi Menswear
117B Fulham Road. London SW3.
Date of Employment. 19th June 1995 – 19th December 1997.
POSITION. Head of Pattern and Technical Dept. for Nicole Farhi Menswear.
RESPONSIBILITIES. Responsible overall for all aspects of menswear range (excluding knitwear), from first toiles, patterns and samples to fittings and final production of tailoring and sportswear.
REPORTING TO: 1. Managing Director. 2. Menswear Designer.
IN CHARGE OF: (5). One personal assistant, one toilist/pattern cutter, one production pattern technician, one coster/marker maker,(Gerber), and one production grader,(Gerber).
LIAISING WITH: Factories – Italy and Portugal. Trimming suppliers. In-house sample room, comprising one supervisor, five machinists, one cutter, one tailor and one presser.
EMPLOYER. The Royal College of Art
Kensington Gore. London SW7 2EU.
Date of Employment. 11th November 1991 – 16th June 1995
POSITION. Senior Menswear Technician / Instructor in Cutting and Tailoring.
Technical staff Grade F. Department of Fashion and Textiles – Menswear M.A. Course.
(Extract from R.C.A. Job Description Sheet.) Main Duties and Responsibilities:
To instruct students in tailoring and pattern techniques in both traditional and modern production methods.
To liaise with Computer Technicians with ref. To cutting, Drafting and grading on Gerber AM300.
To be responsible for the upkeep of standards within the department.
To liaise with the sample machinists over production and standards of manufacture.
To liaise with Design Tutors with special reference to design, interpretation, fittings and criticisms.
REPORTING TO: 1; Professor of Dept. of Fashion & Textiles.
2; Menswear Course Leader.
Freelance Pattern Cutter & Bespoke Tailor
Thanks so much for your help. Sam offered great feedback and help with our designs.
The work was not finished, there were many issues with the toiles and some were unusable and will need to be redone.
Sam insisted to send a partial payment of the project so he can make amendments and fix these issues. This is the partial payment.
I'm very happy I got to meet Sam. His skills are very impressive and he's also a good listener. I worked with people in both Paris and London and he's by far the very best. A manufacturer for a luxury brand in Paris even told me that only a genius could cut a pattern of my jacket as the design was too complicated. I guess I found my genius then. A big thank you to Sam, I would highly recommend him to anyone to be honest.
Sam was very knowledgeable and was able to help me in a consultation regarding suit tailoring.
Mangum Opus - I asked for Sam to design a specific Garment with some unusual alterations. After receiving a Calico mock up (which is a sample Garment before the actually Garment), I am surprisingly impressed by how much detail I saw, in simple words; A world-class Tailor with accurate measurement’s that can complete the task to the (Highest possible standard). I will admit, I was sceptical about this being done Via Email, since we are not having measurement in person, this made me feel as if something could actually go wrong in the exchange of information, but I was very! very! very! wrong. His track record has been proven. He shall be credited to whom ever ask, who made my Garment. I shall return and more also.
Great work as always
Excellent! Fast and precise.